The Philly cheesesteak is as quintessential to Philadelphia as the bagel is to New York. After many jaunts down to Philly to eat the regional specialty, I might get permanently banned for what I’m about to say, but the best Philly cheesesteak I’ve personally ever had wasn’t in Philly. It wasn’t even in Pennsylvania. It was on N. 10th Street in Brooklyn at Fedoroff’s Roast Pork.
My visit to Fedoroff’s had me questioning what really constitutes a hidden dining gem? I’ve been going to Fedoroff’s for years, and I’ve seen them in the news once or twice. To me, Fedoroff’s is a New York institution. But with its storefront quietly tucked away on North 10th Street in a particularly busy part of Williamsburg, it certainly still feels like a best-kept secret.
The magic is in the details. Despite the space being tiny in typical New York fashion — I’d compare its dimensions to a spacious hallway — the 12-seat shop is plastered with South Philly posters and photos. Makes sense, since that’s where owners Dave and Stella Fedoroff hail from. When they moved to New York, they couldn’t find a proper Philly cheesesteak, so they made one themselves. They started selling their cheesesteaks at Smorgasburg, and in 2016, Fedoroff’s Roast Pork opened a brick and mortar shop.
Fedoroff’s Roast Pork serves Pennsylvania Dutch birch beer, a Pennsylvania staple similar to root beer, but still entirely its own thing. They use USDA prime steak from Creekstone Farms, which is sliced fresh in house every day, and the bread for their sandwiches comes from Parisi Bakery right here in New York. All recipes are their own, from the hearts and souls of two South Philly natives.
As for the food, I obviously had to go for a cheesesteak, which I’ve had many times at Fedoroff’s. The classic cheesesteak here is stuffed to the max inside a soft yet sturdy roll, topped with cheese whiz and onions. There’s no way to eat this thing in a demure fashion; she is one messy sandwich. It’s a salty, decadent masterpiece with a touch of texture and sweetness from the onions. It’s safe to say you should not come to Fedoroff’s for a first date.
In addition to the classic cheesesteak, I finally took the time to try their roast pork sandwich on this visit. It is in the name, after all. The Italian sandwich is made with 14-hour roasted pork, broccoli rabe and provolone cheese. It’s got a nice kick to it, but in a city where Italian sandwiches are found on every block, my preference here is definitely the cheesesteak. There’s just nothing in New York like it.
If you do brave bringing friends with you to witness getting cheese whiz all over your face, you’ll want to grab an order of Bronson fries to split. The fries here are cooked in pure lard, and the Bronson fries are Philly cheesesteak in potato form, piled with steak, cheese, onions and peppers. Even better for sharing is their catering option of a 26-inch sandwich, perfect for football season.
It’s definitely not the lightest of fare, but if you find yourself hungry in Williamsburg and are sick of the overpriced brunch spots and want something simple and delicious, Fedoroff’s Roast Pork is one of the finest frill-less options in the neighborhood.
- Address: 178 N 10th St, Brooklyn, NY 11211
- Phone: No phone number
- Hours: Monday-Sunday 10 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
- Prices: Sandwiches: $18.95-$23.95; Fries: $3.95-$8.95; Catering (26-inch sandwich): $69
- Delivery and takeout available; no reservations.
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