It’s no secret I’m constantly on a hunt for a good burger and, luckily for me, New York has a competitive market for the classic American dish. Swoony’s, located on the cusp of Carroll Gardens and Cobble Hill, had been recommended to me by a friend whose burger opinion I deeply trust, so off I went.
Opened in November 2023, Swoony’s is a newcomer that seems to be making waves in the neighborhood. I went on a Friday night at 8:30 p.m. and learned I’m not the only one who had received a recommendation; the place was nearly full.
Run by chef Sal Lamboglia, who also owns Cafe Spaghetti just down the street, Swoony’s was conceptualized to have more of a casual atmosphere than his first restaurant.
“I really wanted to open a restaurant in the neighborhood that felt like more of a night out, but still being really approachable and fun,” chef Sal tells me when I asked what inspired the opening of Swoony’s. “Something a little more special occasion, but a place where you could also pop in and grab a burger and a beer.”
I started with the deviled eggs ($9), the whipped goat cheese ($14) and the clams casino ($17), because just like a burger, if any type of baked clams are on a menu, I’m ordering them.
The deviled eggs were my favorite bite of the three, with a subtle sweetness from the caramelized onion and pops of trout roe for a bright, fun element. The whipped goat cheese had a nice texture due to being topped with chili crunch and was accompanied by cucumbers and grilled sourdough. The clams casino, despite my adoration for baked clams, was a little too heavy on the breadcrumbs, and didn’t have anything particularly memorable about them. Next time, I’d skip them and try the tuna crudo with toasted brioche for my seafood appetizer instead.
Moving onto the main course, the burger was the driving factor in going to Swoony’s, so I hardly needed to look at the menu. I did anyway, and suddenly I felt compelled to order the short rib au poivre instead. After a bit of battle with myself, I stuck with my original plan and ordered the burger.
The Swoony’s burger ($25) is a double patty with thousand island dressing and American cheese on a Portuguese muffin, served with a heaping pile of fries. The muffin appears to be flat, but is slightly leavened, with a light exterior and slightly darker center. The best comparison is if an English muffin and a buttery brioche had a bread baby. I cut the burger in half and, upon taking a bite, I was hit with an oozing of American cheese that made this burger cozy, nostalgic and comforting.
Despite having never had a Portuguese muffin before, I was surprised by how much I liked it as a burger vessel. The bread was sturdy enough to hold the burger intact, but felt less dense than a typical burger bun. It wasn’t just the bun and the cheese, though. The meat also delivered: juicy with patties that weren’t too thick.
I’ve reviewed dozens of burgers in the city: Southwest burgers with green chiles, Korean-fusion burgers, hole-in-the-wall burger joints in Queens, you name it. I can confidently say that the one at Swoony’s easily falls into my top ten burgers in New York, largely attributed to the comforting American cheese and the unique bun.
After my visit, Giovanna Cucolo, managing partner in charge of front-of-house operations and the wine list, told me the burger is indeed a bestseller, but the short rib au poivre is a second runner up. This confirmed my gut instinct to go for the burger was right, but now I need to come back to see if the short rib au poivre holds up to the hype, too.
The food isn’t the only aspect of Swoony’s where great care and detail is given. The bar program, run by bar manager Ricardo Echeverri, includes lower-ABV offerings with a focus on local producers. Plus, Giovanna’s natural wine list keeps offerings unique, with most bottles under $100.
I’m going to make a bold statement, but Swoony’s further proves my theory that Carroll Gardens and its general surrounding area is up there with Jackson Heights as one of the best foodie neighborhoods in New York. I’m personally grateful for another welcoming, delicious and unpretentious addition to the neighborhood.
- Address: 215 Columbia St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
- Phone: (718) 207-3686
- Hours: Monday-Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Closed Sundays
- Prices: Snacks: $7-$10; Starters: $13-$21; Salads: $10-$16; Seconds: $25-$36; Sides: $8-$11; Desserts: $8-$12
- Delivery and takeout available; reservations accepted.
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