While many commit to Dry January, the coldest and arguably quietest month of the year is my preferred time to go check out some of the city’s best cocktail bars. Hey, let’s call it my way of supporting local businesses in their time of need. My recent selfless act of charity brought me to Perch in East Harlem.
I arrived around 4 p.m. on a Friday, right at opening. By 4:30, the place filled up with what appeared to be many regulars filling nearly all the seats at the bar which, aside from a few chairs by the front window, is the only place to sit. This doesn’t entirely surprise me — the area is seriously lacking when it comes to cocktail bars. I would soon learn that the loyalty of Perch’s patrons likely has as much to do with its impeccable quality of service, food, and drink (plus the weekday happy hour from open to 6 p.m.).
The lead mixologist, Melissa Diaz, ran the place like a total boss. She was the only bartender working, and watching her make several cocktails at a time while chatting with customers, running food and keeping a positive demeanor made me miss my old bartending days. Bartending at a place like Perch, which has a similar environment to where I worked for many years pre-pandemic, can sometimes feel like a strategic sport, and Melissa stayed well on top of the game.
I ordered several plates of food at once. I opted for longaniza croquettes (which are also available in cheese), the “bread and dip” — with whipped ricotta and house-made focaccia — and the scallops. As for cocktails, which are priced at $18 each (mocktails are $15), I started with the Mambo Siciliano from their “Perch Signatures” portion of the menu, made with rye, passion fruit, Cocchi Americano, grapefruit, anise, and thyme.
Shortly after taking my first sip of my boozy concoction, which had a nice tart balance thanks to the addition of passion fruit and grapefruit, my bread and dip arrived. I am a sucker for any type of dip where cheese is the main ingredient, even more so after trying the life-changing spicy feta dip from Amali last year. The one at Perch confirms my theory that if any type of cheese-based dip is on a menu, you should order it. The ricotta has a super airy and creamy consistency. It’s topped with lemon zest and served alongside crusty, lightly-oiled bread. The bread and dip at Perch would end up being my favorite dish I tried.
But before I could make that call, it was time for the longaniza croquettes. The $13 dish came with four croquettes, a red pepper spread on the side and giardiniera, a vinegar-based Italian relish with carrots, cauliflower and other veggies.
While the croquettes were a perfectly fine bite, especially with a little bit of the tangy giardiniera, I didn’t find the desire to eat all four of them. I ended up offering them to a group of three men who sat right beside me, and they each enthusiastically accepted. Sharing apps at a bar is a great conversation starter, and they told me Perch is their favorite spot in the neighborhood.
Before my scallops arrived, it was time for another cocktail. This time, I went for something from the “Classic Riffs” portion of the menu and chose The Mule, made with vodka, ginger, yuzu kosho (a fermented Japanese yuzu and chili paste) and lemongrass, garnished with plenty of fresh Thai basil. I absolutely loved this cocktail. The ginger provided great warmth for these cold winter days, though I could see it being just as refreshing in the summer thanks to its citrus and herb-forward notes.
The scallops were beautifully plated. While the bread and dip and croquettes were expected bar food, this dish let me know that Perch serves up much more than bar bites; a full, satisfying dinner is very much possible here. The scallops were served with blistered tomatoes atop a silky herb oil. They were light yet filling, leaving me full without bursting.
Though Melissa had recommended the burger, as someone who constantly reviews burgers, I decided to venture out from my usual on this visit. Next time, I think I’ll take her advice. Other tempting options on the menu include salmon cakes, duck confit, and even a New York strip, which is a steal at only $24.
The atmosphere at Perch made me want to overstay my welcome, but all good things must come to an end. From the friendly regulars to that tasty dip, my return to Perch is inevitable.
- Address: 1693 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10029
- Phone: No phone
- Hours: Monday-Wednesday 5 p.m.-12 a.m.; Thursday 4 p.m.-12 a.m.; Saturday-Friday 4 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday 3 p.m.-12 a.m.
- Prices: Cocktails $18; Dry Cocktails $15; Food $10-$24; Wine by the glass $14-$17; Wine by the bottle $52-$60; Beer $10
- No takeout, no delivery, no reservations.
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