The UK’s coastline is dotted with approximately 189 inhabited islands, attracting tourists to well-known spots like Jersey, the Isle of Wight, and the Isle of Skye. Such locations are hotspots for summer holidaymakers, A-listers and even the likes of royalty – with Prince William and Kate known to take breaks on the Scilly Isles.
Yet many more hidden gems remain under the radar, offering stunning beauty without the fame.
Colonsay, dubbed the “jewel of the Hebrides,” could well be Scotland’s – possibly even the UK’s – best-kept secret. Having visited the island myself, I’ve been captivated by it and have now made five return journeys.
With pristine beaches that could rival those of the Bahamas, crystal-clear waters, invigorating sea air, and seafood caught straight from the ocean, Colonsay exudes an almost magnetic pull – prompting my own recent return for a yearly dose of its charms.
Those few acquaintances who have set foot on Colonsay, aside from my relatives, find themselves enchanted by its slow pace of life, hidden wild swimming treasures, and sweeping views, not to mention a slightly warmer climate (at least by typical Scottish standards), courtesy of the Gulf Stream, reports the Express.
While summer sees its peak of visitors, Colonsay retains an atmosphere far removed from crowded or bustling locales. Its tranquillity and untouched remoteness offer an escape into one of Scotland’s most secluded havens, seemingly transporting you decades back in time.
Aside from the occasional arrival and departure of the CalMac ferry, tourist crowds are a rarity here. With a population of approximately 125 and its closest neighbouring community nearly 20 miles away, Colonsay is one of the most isolated communities in the British Isles.
The island, measuring a mere eight miles in length, is small with a single road winding around its perimeter, which cows and sheep freely roam. However, what it lacks in size, it compensates for in charm, offering surprisingly numerous activities.
For food and culture enthusiasts, Colonsay boasts distilleries, a bookshop, a microbrewery, a hotel and bar serving fresh seafood, a café, a golf course, and even an art gallery. Wildlife and nature lovers can enjoy wild swimming, paddleboarding, walking, stargazing, birdwatching, exploring peat bogs, and more.
Upon setting foot on the island, my first stop is always the famed Kiloran Bay, often hailed as one of Scotland’s most stunning beaches. With gentle waves lapping at the shore, it’s rare to spot another person.
The beach extends in a broad, sweeping curve, while behind you, dunes and grassy hills speckled with wildflowers rise. The water is chilly but incredibly clear.
Other beaches include Ardskenish, Balnahard, Machrins, Harvard, Queen’s Bay, Cable Bay, and Pig’s Paradise.
However, be ready to embrace the island lifestyle. Wi-Fi is practically non-existent or at best, unreliable.
Mobile phone reception is limited to certain areas of the island, truly offering an off-grid experience. Ferries operate once daily during the summer from Oban, reducing to four times weekly in winter.
But beware, adverse weather can lead to cancellations, leaving you marooned on the island.
If a digital detox is what you’re after, this is undoubtedly the place for you. Once the initial urge to endlessly scroll through social media subsides, you’ll find yourself settling into the rhythm of island life.
Without the constant buzz of technology, simple joys like long strolls, reading by the fire, and admiring stunning sunsets quickly become the highlights of your day. Evenings are peaceful, with only the sound of the wind and waves as your soundtrack.
Seafood plays a significant role in the island’s gastronomy. During my visit, I savoured fresh scallops, haddock, and smoked salmon.
The renowned Colonsay Smokery prides itself on smoking its salmon “the old-fashioned way,” by hand. The Colonsay Hotel, meanwhile, serves up mouth-watering lobster, mussels, and freshly caught fish daily, all set against the cosy ambience of a roaring log fire and views of the neighbouring islands of Islay and Jura.
The Pantry, a café by day and restaurant by night, offers a delectable fish platter (though preordering is a must).
If you’re a fan of spirits, Colonsay has an abundance to offer. The island’s distilleries – including Colonsay Wild Island Distillery and Wild Thyme Spirits Distillery – are a unique feature of the locale.
Of course, Colonsay is also renowned for its diverse wildlife. Seals are a frequent sight here, and during a particularly invigorating wild swim – wetsuits are a must – we noticed a solitary seal observing us with inquisitive eyes.
Whales and the occasional porpoise can also be spotted off the coasts of Colonsay and Oronsay, the neighbouring island accessible only at low tide. More elusive are the island’s otters, which can typically be seen in the early mornings or evenings on especially calm days.
Even rarer are the wild goats on Colonsay’s eastern shoreline, believed to be descendants of those aboard a Spanish Armada ship that was wrecked on the island. For bird enthusiasts, I discovered that Colonsay is home to the rare corncrake, a bird with a distinctive rasping call that has become increasingly scarce across the UK.
Although I didn’t manage to spot one, locals claim you can often hear its unmistakable call emanating from the undergrowth. Other birds include golden eagles and hen harriers.
Additionally, the sky is a deep black, with no light pollution to hinder the view. Countless stars and galaxies twinkle above, and I was fortunate enough to see the Northern Lights performing their celestial dance during an early autumn visit.
Meanwhile, the Colonsay House Gardens, a haven for sub-tropical plants due to the island’s gentle climate, opens its doors to the public during the summer months. However, it’s not just the stunning beaches and picturesque landscapes that lure visitors to the island – it’s the warm-hearted locals who truly infuse life into it.
Whether it’s the friendly staff at the local shop and café or the cheerful greetings from passers-by, it’s rare to cross paths with an inhabitant who isn’t up for a friendly chat.
The strong community spirit keeps the island ticking along smoothly. It’s commonplace to be served by someone in the local store one minute, only to spot them later in high-vis gear, guiding you onto the ferry.
Moreover, the island is a hub of activity, regularly hosting book, food, and folk music festivals, pub quizzes, weekly football matches (Colonsay vs. Rest of the World), clay pigeon shooting events, golf tournaments, and energetic ceilidh dances.
As the tourist information board amusingly points out: “Whenever you are here, there is likely to be something going on-even if it is only the sheep-shearing competition.”
For those considering an extended stay, accommodation options abound, with over 40 self-catering cottages available for rent, rooms at the Colonsay Hotel, and a backpackers’ lodge. Wild camping is also permitted, although campervans are not.