If I were to write the food pyramid of what everyone needs in their daily diet, it would consist of three things: bitter herbaceous greens, burgers and spicy food. Should I ever be elected as some executive health director, my first order would be to send everyone to BK Jani to get their daily fix.
A little background on how I choose my hidden dining gems each week: I’m a bit of a food nerd, and I keep a spreadsheet to ensure I cover a variety of cuisines across the board, whether it’s Guyanese fusion sandwiches, Sri Lankan specialties, or Uzbek food in the Rockaways. Pakistani cuisine is something I have long been seeking to review, and the tipping point came when I heard BK Jani, a tiny hole-in-the-wall in Williamsburg, not only had a simple but solid Pakistani menu by Lahore-native Sibte Hassan, but that they had a top-notch burger.
I trekked down Grand Street on a cold Tuesday afternoon and entered BK Jani. Immediately, I loved the aesthetic of the place. There is a giant neon sign that says “EAT SPICY.” I would soon learn they’re not kidding.
I ordered at the counter, going for the lamb chops, which were a steal at only $16. I also got a side of masala-dusted fries ($4) and a Jani, their signature burger, made with a ½ pound of meat for $18.
“How would you like it cooked?” the employee asked. “And, mild, medium or spicy?”
“Medium rare for the cook,” I said, as I hesitated on the heat level. I almost always go for the hottest of the hot, but as someone who has eaten Pakistani cuisine many times before, I knew maximizing the spice could overpower all other flavors. My hot sauce-addicted heart fought my brain as I muttered the words: “Medium heat, please.”
My lamb chops arrived quickly plated simply and thoughtfully on a wooden board. Plus, I can’t think of a single place in the city where you can get two tender pieces of lamb for only 16 bucks. The lamb chops, unlike the burger, are grilled “medium rare unless requested otherwise,” and don’t require designating a spice level. Let me warn you to brace yourself — these babies have a kick.
I picked on up, no fork or knife required (nor given) and as I took a bite I was taken aback by the complex flavors. Strong hits of black peppercorn punch you in the nose. The flavors are intensified by the spicy mint chutney on the side. I finished one lamb chop and had to stop myself from devouring the next one to save room for the burger.
The Jani and fries arrived. As the self-proclaimed burger queen of New York (I mean, come on, how many have I reviewed at this point?), I immediately began to make evaluations. First, this burger was thick and tall, with a “cartoonish” look, similar to the one at Nowon because of its perfect “emoji-like” shape and appearance, and perfectly stacked tomato. Second, I saw a small slathering of green on the bottom peaking out. I had a feeling that, when I bit in, I was in for one juicy treat.
I bit in and, much to my expectations, that first bite might as well have been butter. The sesame-covered bun became an afterthought — I just remember when my teeth hit that meat, and then I remember my eyes widening from the spice. That bottom pop of green was a thick slathering of the same mint chutney that came with my lamb chops. To my surprise, there was also a creamy raita slathered underneath the top bun, which helped cut the heat ever so slightly.
Don’t get it twisted, though — I was only able to get through maybe a third of this burger (granted that was after a lamb chop and several masala-dusted fries), before waving a white flag.
I would say, out of every spicy food I’ve covered in New York, if you want to seriously test your limits, BK Jani is where you need to go, especially if you prefer your spice with tender cooked meat.
- Address: 679 Grand St, Brooklyn, NY 11211 (there are also stalls inside Brooklyn’s DeKalb Market and The Hugh on the UES)
- Phone: (347)-460-5110
- Hours: Tuesday-Friday 12 p.m.-9:30 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday 12:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.; Closed Mondays
- Prices: Burgers $16-$18; Appetizers $6; Grilled Meats $16-$56; Chicken $12-$15; Sides $4-$10
- Takeout and delivery available; no reservations.
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