New research raises concerns about the safety of chemical hair relaxers. Now, many Black women want safer alternatives.

GREENSBORO, N.C. — Helping women feel confident in their natural hair is a major part of Jaime Wright’s life work. As a hairstylist for 15 Years, she’s seen a major shift in the way Black women choose to wear their tresses.

“I think some women have never even seen their natural hair,” Wright said. “Maybe they were relaxed at a young age, and they didn’t know what it was to take care of their natural curly hair.” 

It was her own natural haircare journey that inspired her to help women understand their hair type and what it needs to stay healthy.

“I think as it has become more mainstream and more acceptable to see curly hair and natural hairstyles,” Wright said. “Women are more curious about what that look like for me; how do I wear my natural hair and how am I able to embrace that.”

A recent National Institutes of Health study found that women who use chemical hair straighteners more than four times a year face an increased risk of uterine cancer, with Black women most affected. Thousands have since sued relaxer manufacturers, claiming the companies failed to warn consumers of the risks.

“It’s not surprising because there are chemicals like sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, you’ve got parabens, and sometimes formaldehydes are found in some of those chemical relaxers and chemical straighteners in general,” Wright said.

Studies show that long-term exposure to ingredients like formaldehyde and parabens may contribute to hormone disruption, scalp irritation, and even an increased risk of certain cancers.

For those who still want to straighten their hair, without the use of chemicals found in relaxers, Wright said there are alternatives. These include blow outs, sew-ins, and STS treatments,

Wright said 98% of her clients are relaxer-free.

“STS treatments are Strengthening and Straightening Treatments,” Wright said. “Their active ingredients are amino acids and proteins. It does not chemically straighten your hair, but it allows it to stay straight and frizz free for longer.” 

Dr. Amy McMichael is a professor of dermatology at Wake Forest School of Medicine. She said she would like to see more research focused on developing safer and more effective ways to straighten hair.

“I don’t think anybody should be forced into a corner where everybody must have natural hair, everybody must have relaxed hair, everybody has to wear a tiny ‘fro to keep their hair healthy,” Dr. McMichael said. “I think everybody should have a variety of options open to them as long as it’s healthy for their hair. I’d like to see some of the cosmetic companies really step up to the plate and start to look at the hair shaft in a way that maybe is revolutionary.”

No matter how you wear your hair, experts agree—education is key.

“I think relaxers aren’t going anywhere,” Wright. “The biggest thing that I want viewers to take home with them is education.  Natural hair education or education about your hair is so essential to be able to maintain, grow and have the healthiest hair of your life.”

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